Как сшить японский фартук своими руками пошаговая инструкция

I love the variously named Japanese / Cross Back / X Back / Mobius / No Ties or Strings aprons usually made from linen fabric. I had a pair of linen trousers that had worn thin in places, so I couldn’t wear them anymore

I decided to make one of these aprons from them, trying to get the most apron out of the material available, keeping the waistband and fly intact on the lower edge/hem, to make the apron shorter start the shoulder straps further down the trouser leg.

Here are the basic instructions….with plenty of opportunity to embellish, finesse and personalize as you wish

Essential

1. Pair of trousers (see Step 2.)

2. Flat area at least 80 x 110 cms (floor/table)

3. 8 x sheets A4 paper and sticky tape

4. Pencil/ marker/ chalk

5. Sharp craft knife or similar

6. Sewing needle

Desirable

7. Pins

8. Sharp scissors

(9. Sewing machine (non electric) and thread with hem foot)

Optional

10. Steam iron

11. Sewing machine (electric) and thread with zigzag stitch

12. Pinking shears

For best results, choose trousers

• in a colour and fabric you like
• in a fabric suitable for an apron
• that have a hem ideally 30cms wide (60cms circumference)
• that are straight legged

1. Lines indicate A4 sheets of paper X 8
2. Dashed lines indicate folds lines
3. You can add or subtract length at edge on the left

METHOD:

4. Fold each A4 sheet carefully into 16

5. Stick sheets together (use flat surface for accuracy)

6. Copy outline of apron (and marks) using fold lines as a guide

7. Cut out shape and along center line = 2 pattern pieces

8. Keep the spare paper in case you need it to help make pockets later

1. Turn trousers inside out

2. Locate inside-leg seam

3. Assess the rows of stitching — there are usually 2 rows — 1.Straight chain stitch and 2. Overlocked/Serged edge.

4. Start by finding the beginning of the straight chainstitch which can be undone by pulling the 2 threads apart

5. With the blade, cut through one or two of the threads of the overlocking stitch to leave 1 thread intact

6. Save the thread (it matches the fabric) wind it onto some card to keep it from tangling

7. Undo crotch seam similarly from fly up back to waistband. You may need to cut through the waistband

Optional

8. If you have a steam iron, press undone seams flat

1. On flat surface lay out trousers (still inside out)

2. Place 2 sides of trousers on top of each other (try to match well)

3. Line up centre seams from hem to waistband

4. Make sure edges line up

Optional:

If you have pins (or similar) use them to hold pieces in this position

1. Align shoulder to hem corner + 1cm

2. Mark sewing line using pattern + extra 1cm at top (Shown)

(3. if you want to turn an edge hem too, move the pattern in 1cm from outer edge of trousers) (Not shown)

Leave in place

Go to next step

4. Pivot at shoulder and align to centre seam

5. Mark arm opening

Leave in place

Go to next step

7. Slide paper piece straight to outer edge

8. Mark stitching line, leave 1cm seam allowance

9. Mark neck opening and top of shoulder + 1cm (see Step 7)

10. Pivot at shoulder point to create stitching line to end of fly opening

11. This can be a bit fiddly as the fly is well constructed with lots of parts

12. Return the shoulder to your marks from Step 9

13. Pivot at shoulder towards centre seam

14. Mark arm opening

15. Remove pattern pieces

16. Mark the arm opening by joining the front and back lines in a smooth curve

17. Mark a smooth line from back shoulder to waistband

1 Line

• If you want to leave the edge as it is it will start to fray to a degree dependent on the fabric

you can enclose the edge with a strip of fabric cut for the purpose or use ribbon or bias binding (approx 5m) 2 Lines

• Add an additional mark line approx 1cm beyond the existing line if you wish to

fold over the edge to enclose the cut and stitch this down — known as a hem

this can be done by hand or machine sewing

trim with Pinking shears which can retard fraying

Inner line is stitching line

Outer line is cutting line

If you’re using pins — check none are across the line as this will interfere with cutting

Move the pins to secure the 2 pieces of fabric together

Without pins — use your hand to hold the fabric flat

Cut smoothly along marked line

Before you disturb the pieces too much

1. Secure the centre front seam from the fly to the neck opening with
2. Hand stitching following the straight line
3. Pin well and sew with sewing machine
4. Open apron out and press the centre front seam open
5. Check it is smooth and even with no puckering before trimming away excess fabric

1. Either side of the neck opening are 2 front straps — Left and Right

2. Back straps on the other side of arm opening — Left and Right

TO MAKE CROSS BACK

3. Fold the apron so the Left Back Strap meets Right Front Strap at shoulder

4. Fold the apron so the Right Back Strap meets Left Front Strap at shoulder

Ensure the fabric isn’t twisted

1. Line up the shoulders

2. On pivot points

3. Ensure the stitching is on the inside of the apron as are the other seams

Pick up by the shoulders

Your trousers are now an apron

Work out how to put it on

Essential

• Sew up pocket openings

Desirable

If the pockets are attached on outside

• Carefully open what was the bottom edge
• Remove pockets and move where you like and reattach

If the pockets are attached on inside

• Cut away excess fabric
• Use this fabric and/or left over trouser fabric to create pockets

Optional

Create new pockets

Cross back aprons are sometimes called Mobius aprons because they have a continuous edge

Options

1. Leave the edge

2.Fold the edge twice to enclose the cut edge and stitch down using sewing needle and saved thread

3. Trim edge with Pinking shears to retard fraying

4. Hem edge using Hem foot with non-electric sewing machine

5. Zigzag or overlock/serge the edge with electric sewing machine

6. Bind the edge with ribbon / homemade or bought bias binding (approx. 5m)

NOTE: If you cut through the waistband give some extra attention to this area when doing edge